Nativity in a Castle

During the summer, we visited Cochem castle, which overlooks the Mosel River. We recently returned when I heard about a live Nativity being there.

A narrator led us through the castle where different scenes from the story were acted out. It was all in German, but we could easily follow the familiar scenes as they came to life.

Mary and Joseph

No room in the inn

Shepherds keeping watch

The angel appeared

The sheep, of course

This was an added scene where the young girls were talking about bringing gifts to the baby Jesus. My oldest small child could understand most of what they were saying, so she explained it to me.

The Wise Men

They didn't have a real baby, but they did have a Labrador.

After the performance was over, the Wise Men handed out chocolate gold coins to the kids.

The Christmas Market

The Christmas Market is truly the culmination of German festivals. Near the end of November, a small temporary village was constructed within the city center where we live: rows of little wooden huts that house vendors selling their food and wares. When I walk outside our apartment, I can actually smell sugar in the air! Today is the last day of the market and I will miss it.

On the first night of the market, we took the small children to see the lights come on. Our city's market is called the Twinkling Star Christmas Market, and the lights are indeed a sight to behold! Towering above the stalls are flower-shaped lights that magically transform the city into a festive Christmas celebration.

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's hard to describe the sights, sounds, and smells of the Christmas market, so here are just a few...

1. Crowds of people sipping on gluhwein (mulled spiced hot wine) gather together to eat, drink, and be merry. Each market has their own mug, yours to keep as a souvenir!

2. A giant Christmas tree with 3,000 lights, decorated with 1,000 blue and gold bows.

3. Food stands selling potato pancakes served with apple sauce, bratwurst, flammkuchen, crepes, cakes, cookies, and more!

4. A full-size nativity scene, situated right outside the town hall.

5. Stalls selling handcrafted items ranging from wood carved Christmas ornaments to wool scarves and mittens to ceramics and glass art.

6. Rides for the small children: a train, a double-decker carousel, a Ferris wheel, and more!

7. A public ice skating rink with two curling rinks.

8. Choirs and other performers singing Christmas carols.

Almost each town across the country has their own Christmas market with their own theme and offers local food specialties and handicrafts. Many people make it their mission to visit as many Christmas markets as they can. This year, we only went to the one in our town. It's so convenient and wonderful, why would we go anywhere else?!

St. Nicholas Day

Another new saint to add to our repertoire is Saint Nicholas, or the real Santa. One of the fun things about being in Germany during the Christmas season is learning about their traditions and how they are closely linked to how Americans generally celebrate Christmas. Many of "our" traditions come from European countries; Germany having a strong influence.

Throughout Germany, there are actually dozens of names used for the German Father Christmas or Santa Claus. These names can even vary within a region from locality to locality. Some of these characters are good, while others are bad—going so far as to frighten little children and even whip them with switches!

My oldest small child was taught about the real Santa in her German immersion class. Saint Nicholas was born in 280 and became a Christian Bishop who provided for the poor and sick. Once, he provided for a very poor family by leaving money in stockings that were left hanging by the fire to dry. His kindness was discovered, but Nicholas never wanted recognition or attention. He preferred to carryout his acts of kindness is secrecy.

After Nicholas died, people told stories about his kindness, particularly about his special care for children. Before the Reformation, Saint Nicholas Day, December 6th, was the day children received their gifts, but then Martin Luther wanted to steer away from the Catholic saints so he combined the traditions of Saint Nicholas and Christmas.

Today, Saint Nicholas Day is celebrated by children placing their boot by the door or window on the night of December 5th. In the morning, children who were good during the year receive treats and tangerine. Naughty children receive a switch or a rod. Saint Nicholas keeps record in his Golden Book and often leaves a note to the child with praises for good attributes as well as something the child should work on for the next year.

My small child's teacher asked for the parents to each secretly write a letter and then she would read it out loud to the class. The kids also brought a boot to class to leave for Saint Nicholas. The kids all got chocolates and a tangerine the next day!

At home we joined in the fun and had the small children leave their boots by the door on the night of December 5th. I decided that while we're here each year, Saint Nicholas could leave each child a special Christmas ornament from the Christmas Market.

One of the ornaments I bought was a glass pickle. I had heard from a friend the Christmas Pickle was a very old German tradition. The ornament gets placed last on the tree and the first child to find it gets an extra present. Even though the pickle ornament was not hard to find in the Christmas Market, I have since learned it is in fact not a German tradition and could possibly be a story made up by someone in America! Oops!

Whether real or made up, these traditions we're learning and taking part in will likely become adopted as our own family traditions. I see them as opportunities to enrich our experience and to be intentional about teaching Christmas as being a time of anticipating and giving.

St. Martin's Day

Last month, we had the opportunity to learn about and participate in a German tradition called St. Martin's Day.

My oldest small child was taught about the holiday in her German immersion class. As the story goes, Martin was a Roman soldier born in 316 AD. He is known for cutting his cloak in half to share with a beggar in a snowstorm, to save the beggar from freezing to death. That night, Martin dreamed it was Jesus who was the beggar. He's now the patron saint of beggars.

The night before St. Martin's Day, children walk in a procession carrying lanterns and singing songs. My child's teacher invited the class to come out for the lantern parade, which was to begin at the church downtown. We were able to purchase a lantern for the occasion and met everyone at the church.

St. Martin's story was narrated by a clergyman and reenacted by school children. The children also sang traditional Martin's Day songs. After the performance, the crowd was dismissed outside. There, a man on horseback dressed as a Roman soldier waited for the children to gather with their lanterns. The horse then led the procession through the streets while all of the people continued singing. The children proudly carried their lanterns as they followed.

Inside the church during the performance.

One of the songs they sang.

St. Martin on his horse
 

The children carrying their lanterns. 

 

When we reached the end, St. Martin's day bread was passed out to the German children who we assumed were part of the production back in the church. Just as we were about to leave, we experienced the true meaning of St. Martin's Day: to share. Kids came over to us and broke their bread to share with us, just as St. Martin had shared his cloak.

Here's the bread. It's in the shape of St. Martin.

This message has stuck with my small children. On one cold day since then, I shared my gloves with my youngest, who returned one of them saying, "So we could each have one, just like St. Martin shared his coat."

Hochheim Market

Back in November, we went to the Hochheim Market. I was curious about experiencing a market that's happened annually for 530 years. While the merchandise has changed some, I got the feeling of being transported back in time when people from all over gathered together once a year to sell their wares.

This one happens to be one of the largest fairs in Germany. There were hundreds of merchants lining the streets selling everything from hand-knit sweaters to sausages to agricultural machinery to vacuums to kitchen gadgets to health and fitness products.

Besides sales, there were amusement rides: a Ferris wheel, roller coaster, bumper cars, pony rides, and a dozen others.

 

We didn't miss out on the lederhosen-wearing accordion band. Oompah!

 

 The real reason we went was for the food.

 

 

Now that's rotisserie!

Making a crepe. After a few minutes, she adds the good stuff: Nutella!

A little crepe hut

Nuts

Wurst

Sweets

Treats

Grocery Shopping

Confession: We've lived here almost 6 months and I haven't fully immersed myself into the German grocery store experience. Until recently, I have heavily relied on the comfort and convenience of the American grocery store for most of my needs. Sure, I've gotten quite adept at buying a few items from our local ALDI, but for the REAL shopping...I'm talking the once-a-week-bring-your-and-list-stock-up-on-everything grocery run, I've still been going to the American grocery store.

And so it was...until the American grocery store was out of half-and-half for more than 2 weeks, they didn't have any ground beef another week, and someone encouraged me it was time to start venturing out.

So I decided I should change my routine and try something new. I picked the next closest thing I knew to American style shopping: a store called Globus. It's a bit like going to a Super Target. I like it because it has a parking lot, so I can drive to it and park and use their carts. Then, I can drive my groceries back the to the apartment and I don't have to schlep bags through the streets.

One thing to get used to is the German grocery store hours. Americans are accustomed to being able to go out and get whatever they want, whenever they want it. Not so in Germany. The stores are open at 9:00 and close by 7:00 or so in the evening. And they are never open on Sunday.

Inside the store, I was shocked by how many brands and varieties some products have (candy, chocolate, cheeses, pasta, pork, potatoes, soup mix), and how some products only have a few (cereal, frozen vegetables).

It was interesting to look at all the pasta varieties: piccolini, gemelli, gobetti, and bucatini, to name a few that I've never heard of. (Next time I attempt a Martha Stewart pasta recipe, I'll know where I can find the exotic shapes her recipes usually call for!)

There was an entire "Amerika" section with mostly Mexican food kits, pop tarts, and microwave popcorn. (Apparently, this is what Germans think Americans survive off of...sadly, that might  not be too far from the truth!)

They sell colored eggs year-round. Someone confirmed they are already hard-boiled. I have yet to give them a try. But I am looking forward to the time it will save at Easter!

 

They still sell lots of things in glass bottles and jars. But American-style hot dogs? Um, no thanks!

At least they have the American-style buns for the hot dogs!

One curious discovery was that of the dried soup mixes. Instead of shelves of Campbells and Chunky in cans, they sell packets of flavorings and soup mixes. I was looking for chicken stock, but could only find bouillon. Knorr and Maggi are the big producers of every flavor of dehydrated soup mix, from cream of mushroom to chicken noodle!

Another American brand. 

Bear-shaped salami!

So after about 2 hours of trying to gather all the items on my list (or something close enough!), I then proceed to checkout. The cashiers are seated as they scan items at break-neck speed. The process goes like this: The cashier scans every item as fast as you can unload them from your cart while you are also trying to get your bags out and have your cart down at the other end so you can start bagging. (Don't forget to put up the divider after your last item, or the person behind you will get grumpy.) By the time you start getting to your bagging, the cashier gives you your total. Which you have to have them repeat several times before they give up and point to the amount shown on their screen. Then, you start fumbling for the money - cash, because it's mostly a cash society. All while the next person is breathing down your neck for you to bag your last item and get out of their way. Whew!

Here's some of the awesome produce I bought.

Some of the fun items I thought I'd try.

And the German half-and-half. Not quite as creamy, but it will do in a pinch.